Make it Monday // Seamwork Sonya

The good, the baggy, and the stripes

It’s been a good while since I mentioned my Seamwork subscription. It’s a free online magazine with a wealth of articles about fabric, travel, sewing, clothing and two easy to complete patterns in each monthly publication. While the styles are simple and straight forward, there are variations to make them more unique and challenging. Along with different styling options, often times using one of the patterns from a previous issue (their marketing department knows what they’re doing).

The magazine is great for both beginner and advanced sewists and while it is free, the patterns are not. For $6/month you can download the patterns, plus extras, or use your credits to purchase previous issue patterns or even a full blown Colette pattern from the main store. It’s really a bargain in many ways.

That being said, I haven’t been diligent in producing these garments. Sometimes the styles don’t suit me, but mostly, I’m just lured by the next “new” pattern out there. So!! I’m making an effort to look at these Seamwork patterns again and try out some new ones or revisit old ones. I also think not enough people are creating and telling about the Seamwork patterns, which is not helping the staff refine their future offerings. As the title states, this week was an adventure with the Sonya dress.

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Cover of the March Issue, featuring the Sonya dres

I loved this dress the minute I saw it. The stripes and the styling. I’ve been itching to make a shift dress for a couple years and why it hasn’t happened, I’m not certain. Even though these are quick sews, I still opted to make a muslin, since incase you are unaware, Colette patterns, are set at C size bust, which usually spells a bit of baggy disaster for me. Straight out of the gates, I did a SBA; much needed. Made the size closest to my measurements and there was way TOO MUCH fabric on the back of the garment. I thought it was just me, but I did query one other Sonya maker on Instagram. Nope. It was an error on the pattern.

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The Muslin. I also tried out the super cute tulip cuffs, but think they’d be better suited to a different garment. Maybe a cute short jacket. **Seamwork are you reading this??**

I ended up moving the zipper teeth to one inch (adding 3/8″ each side) in from raw edge, which coincidentally lined up perfectly with the facing. My suspicion is the facing is correct and the back piece for some strange reason is too large. Even with that adjustment the back of the shirt is still pretty baggy. Oh ya, I made it into a shirt, instead of a dress. Realizing why I haven’t made a shift dress before after the muslin make. They don’t suit my figure. Or at least this one did not.

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The finished shirt. Why does my room have terrible lighting??

The shirt is so baggy, I can get it on overhead without undoing the zipper. If only I’d known, I’d have saved the time putting the zipper in….but I guess this leaves room for taking in the back darts and tightening up the fit. I have to be transparent here – we know I’m never doing that. I’m going to wear it baggy and then probably transplant the zipper at some point to a new garment.

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Baggy back view. Although, I must admit this is better in photos. Maybe Clueless is right, you can only trust a polaroid.

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And a curtsy. Again strange lighting. Try to ignore my glowing head. Ha! The fabric is a cotton linen blend, so within minutes it had a fair bit of wrinkles already. I don’t mind.

Overall, I still adore the style. The front and sleeves are so perfect. If I knew an easy fix for the back, I’d probably do that on the next make, but not sure when I’m going to be making the Sonya again. I’d say it is a B minus fit for me. (Might be reconsidering the rating after seeing the photos….maybe….)

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I used french seams for all the possible seams. It’s pretty tidy on the inside.

*Two pattern direction issues – (1) No stay stitching on the neckline noted, which I’d highly recommend as you don’t put the facing on for a good long time and you’re bound to get the neck stretched if you don’t.  (2) No finishing of the facing raw edge. I think this was just an oversight; probably worth mentioning as it is one place that could be prone to fraying.

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Aaaannnddd….it’s Monday!

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