Make it Monday // Hampshire Trouser

Yes, it’s true. I MADE PANTS!! with a zipper fly and welt back pockets. **Happy Dance like you just won a large group round of LRC**

When I saw the schedule for Sew My Style back in December I thought, “pants in October, I’ll be ready.” October came and I was NOT ready. It took me the better part of the month to just get the test pair out of the way. Surprised at how well the test pair came out (only one welt went in upside down), I pushed on to the real deal pants.

The Hampshire Pants by the creator. I see now that she has a cropped shirt on … no tuck … interesting I just noticed this. Photo courtesy fo her website. califayecollection.com

For the pants in question, I used some green twill I had already purchased last year for a possible coat project that never materialized. The fabric is perfect for pants, except after they were finished, I realized they look a little like I’m working for the Forest Service. “Hey boo, boo”  Oh well, worse things to worry about I suppose.

The finished pants. I didn’t realize how bright this button was until after I took the photo. The green check is the lining of the pants and pocket BAGS.

On the fit: I made a size Medium and graded it to a Small at the waist. This worked well with the test pair, although I did debate also doing a crotch depth adjustment for a good long time. In the end I decided the look of the trouser was indeed more loose fit casual and just kept with the straight Medium to Small grade.

Photos taken by hubby from his chair. See how easy I’m making it for him. Otherwise, No photos for me!

Weeeellll, after they were all finished and tried on. Hmmm. What to do we think? I think the spirit of the original trouser is there, but they are definitely too big in the waist for me. Now, if I had a nice thick shirt tucked in they would probably be okay, but one of my sisters *cough, Elise, cough*  told me nobody tucks their shirts anymore. This is what 10 years of age difference gets you. News to me! Hehe.

That being said, I will probably take the waist in another inch (close to the XS size I’d guess) and leave the hip at a Medium so they are still roomy, but sit higher on my waist, alleviating the crotch depth issue all together.

The welts in action. Sorry for the tuck lines of my shirt interfering with my welt shot. 🙂

The hem: I haven’t hemmed them either. Sewists prerogative, I guess. But also, I wanted to wear them around a bit before I decided if they were ankle pants or full length pants. We know they will never become capris. Partly because I dislike capri pants and also too much width on the leg for that.

The construction: Was it scary? YES! It was really scary. The cutting of the welt opening is terrifying. The thought of the zipper fly, horrendous. But, to the credit of the pattern designer, she provided step by step, heavily photo’d tutorials on her blog of these two items that made it really approachable. As long as you take it all in small pieces, the whole project comes together nicely.

The progress shots.

All in all, it took me about 4 total hours to sew the pants (excluding cutting time and test pants time). This is with running back and forth to the computer, since I have still not extracted hubby from my potential sewing room – read: annoyed him enough with my machining, ironing and chatter about sewing when I’m in there. Must work harder!!

Will I make another pair? Most definitely. Not right away, I’ve got a cape project I’m eager to start, but I will make more.

One thought on “Make it Monday // Hampshire Trouser

  1. Hi! Love the pants! I like the slouchy look but I can see these in a more fitted look too. Yes the untucked look was in… notice I’m saying “was” due to the mid-rise pants. I’m seeing lots of tucked shirts on fashion blogs and mags due to what seems a return to normal waist (now referred to as high waist!) pant styles. My theory is that if you have a nice midsection a tucked top looks good. Nothing to hide!

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